In this Special Holiday Issue for November and December, we feature:

1. Pets as Gifts

2. Constipated Cats

3. Laser Toys

4. Flower Essence Series: Mimulus

1. Pets as Gifts

It's a common scene in advertising this time of the year: a child sits in front of the Christmas tree with a large box in front of him. The box suddenly bursts open, and out pops an adorable kitten or puppy with a big red bow around its neck. Such poignancy is cleverly designed to bring tears to your eyes, and your hand to your wallet to buy whatever they're selling.

As cute as this scene is, giving someone a pet for Christmas is not a good idea, for many reasons. We published this list last year (see the December 2003 newsletter for the full article), but it bears repeating:

• The one presented with the "gift" didn't want an extra commitment (average 15 years) in an already-busy life, or a household member had an allergy where short-term exposure was not problematic, but the person could not live with a pet.
• Some children, especially those not exposed to animals previously, became frightened of the strange new creature, and in turn spooked pet, which created an air of distrust for all involved. Although the previous guardian's paperwork might say that the pet was good with their kids, their actual socialization might not have included what the next child wanted from a pet when they begged for a live Christmas present (playing dress-up, putting in a stroller, etc.).
• Resident animals in the home also got the short end of the stick. If any significant holiday activity was going on in the home, i.e., family staying over, holiday parties, etc., resident pets (especially cats) were already having tough time adapting their sense of "stable-sameness" to the unusual activities. Now throw in another animal, especially of the same species, and—more often than not—disaster is imminent. Once again, the paperwork at the shelter may have assured the adoptive family that the new pet would play well with others, but this assumes ideal conditions, which the holidays do not provide.

Have a wonderful holiday, and congratulations to all of you who will adopt and bring a homeless pet into your hearts and homes in this happy season!

2. Constipated Cats

A surprising number of cats have problems with constipation (abnormal accumulation of feces and difficulty defecating), and similar but more serious conditions such as obstipation (complete obstruction of the colon by feces) and megacolon (damaged nerves and muscles in the colon causing an inability to defecate). Constipation is uncomfortable, even painful. Constipated cats may defecate (or try to) outside the litterbox, because they associate pain or discomfort with the box itself. Other signs of constipation include irritability, painful abdomen, lethargy, and poor appetite or even loss of appetite.

The colon, the last part of the intestinal tract, is a large muscular structure ending at the rectum. It contains most of the intestinal bacteria that reside in the gastrointestinal (GI) tract. These bacteria finish up the digestion of protein. By-products of this process include short-chain fatty acids that nourish the cells lining the colon. Some of these lining cells absorb water, while others secrete mucus to lubricate the stool and keep it moving along.

Most cats defecate about once a day. A constipated cat may only defecate every 2 to 4 days, or even less. Usually the stools are hard and dry, because their long stay in the colon allows for absorption of most of their water content. However, occasionally a constipated cat can appear to have diarrhea, because liquid stool is the only thing that can get around the stuck mass of feces.

Causes for pooping problems include neurologic problems, pelvic injury, obstruction (by hair, bones, etc.), and Inflammatory Bowel Disease (IBD). (See this article for more info on IBD.) A dirty litter box may cause a cat to avoid the box and become constipated by holding the stool too long. Hooded litterboxes are a particular problem because they hold odor in, potentially making the box environment extremely unpleasant for the cat.

In my 10+ years of experience as a feline veterinarian, I have not seen constipation problems in cats who do not eat dry food. It's logical, therefore, to think that diet plays a significant role in development of the problem.

Indeed, the initial treatment for constipation is usually a change in diet. Historically, these cats have usually been put on high-fiber dry foods. Fiber modulates intestinal mobility. Depending on the type of fiber and the circumstances, fiber can either speed up or slow down digestion. It's therefore used for both constipation and diarrhea. Light, senior, and hairball foods all contain increased fiber, and there are also several medical high-fiber diets.

Usually the diet change helps, at least initially. However, eventually these foods often seem to lose their effectiveness over time. More fiber, such as canned pumpkin, may be added. Again, sometimes this produces a temporary improvement. Yet most of these cats continue to have problems.

Since fiber encourages water absorption and increases the amount of stool produced (because it is indigestible), many experts have swung the other way and are recommending "low-residue" diets to minimize stool volume. "Low-residue" means that the food is highly digestible and produces minimal waste. Cats digest protein and fat best, but there is controversy about carbohydrates; it is clear that many cats are carb-intolerant. By this theory, the best food would be high fat, high protein, and low fiber, as well as high moisture. One would think that such a food would also be low fiber, but that is not necessarily true. Eukanuba Low Residue dry food contains 4% fiber, which is fairly high. Most canned foods fit this description, as do most homemade diets. However, Eukanuba Low Residue manages to incorporate a large amount of carbohydrate, even in its canned food. Reading the label is an important skill to develop (learn more about it in this article).

Water balance is crucial in constipated kitties. Most vets will give constipated cats subcutaneous (or even intravenous) fluids to boost their hydration.

Treatment for constipation depends on the severity of the problem. For mild cases, occasional enemas may be all they need. For severe blockages, the cat must be anesthetized for manual extraction of the feces (a process my tech graphically but accurately refers to as a "dig-out").

Once the cat is "cleaned out" by whatever means, it's wise to take steps to prevent the problem from recurring. Several options are available; an individual cat may need only one of these, while others need several or all of them.

• Canned or homemade diet. High-moisture diets keep the cat hydrated, and these diets are far more digestible – and produce far less waste – than dry food.
• Lactulose. This is a sugary syrup that holds water in the stool and keeps the stool soft; therefore it's easier for the cat to pass. Cats are usually not fond of the taste. Fortunately, lactulose now comes in a mild-tasting powder (Kristalose) that can be encapsulated by a compounding pharmacy, or simply added to canned food.
• Other stool softeners, such as DSS (docusate sodium). Your veterinarian can prescribe these.
• Petroleum Jelly. The primary ingredient in most over-the-counter hairball remedies (Laxatone, Kat-a-lax, Petromalt), petroleum jelly can be given to the cat by mouth. Most cats tolerate it, many cats come to like it, and a few even enjoy it. The Vaseline brand is, according to my cats, the tastiest; but other cats prefer one of the flavored hairball types. Give 1/3 to 1/2 teaspoon per day. It can also be mixed with canned food.
• Cisapride (Propulsid). This drug was withdrawn from the market for humans because of dangerous side effects, but it is considered safe for cats. Your vet can order it from a compounding pharmacy. It seems to work best in combination with stool softeners.
• Pediatric glycerin suppositories. Although they may not appreciate having a suppository pushed into their rectums, most cats tolerate it. Your vet can advise you on technique and frequency.
• Enemas. Many cat guardians have gotten good at giving enemas at home. Mineral oil, K-Y jelly, soapy water, and plain warm water are all fine; you may have to experiment to see which one works best for your particular cat.
• Slippery Elm. This powdered herb can be added to canned food (add extra cool water) or made into a syrup. Its mild taste is well tolerated by most cats. See this article for more information. There are many herbal formulas available for people, but many herbs, such as Cascara sagrada, may be too harsh for a cat.
• Exercise. Staying active helps stimulate the intestines and keep things moving. If your constipated cat is also a couch potato, try []Play Therapy.
• Surgery. If there is damage to the nerves and muscles of the colon, a "sub-total colectomy" is the last resort. This surgery removes the colon, and joins the small intestine to the rectum. Unless and until the small intestine develops more colon-like functioning, the result is chronic diarrhea. However, the cat will be much more comfortable.

If your cat is chronically constipated, the most important thing for you to do is be observant. Look for early signs of constipation; straining, abdominal discomfort, decreasing appetite, etc. Be aware of how often the cat is defecating. If he does not produce adequate stool for more than 2-3 days, call your vet, or begin home treatments if you have established this routine. Kitty constipation is far easier to treat when it's caught early. If you wait, treatment will be far more expensive, and there is a greater chance of irreversible colon damage.

When everyone is cooped up during cold weather, "cabin fever" can develop. Cats are apt to be less active and more irritable. Discover a fun method of preventing and treating many stress-related behavior problems in our special report, "What's Play Got to Do With It?" in our Bookstore, as well as many other reports on feline health and behavior topics! Other titles include Feline Diabetes, Allergies to Cats, Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease, What Cats Should Eat, Fat Cats, What's Play Got to Do With It?, Inflammatory Bowel Disease, Interpreting Lab Values, Introducing Your Cat to Your New Baby, and Moving: Making a Smooth Transition with Your Cat.

3. Laser Toys

Every doting cat guardian, it seems, is always on the lookout for the latest, greatest toy – something that will capture their kitty companion's attention and hone his or her hunting skills. One of the tried and true is the good old laser pointer. Dogs as well as cats generally seem very "turned on" by the spot on the wall that travels quickly across the floor, onto the table, couch, etc. Many pet folks have found that they have to literally show their cat or dog the pointer, and put in a drawer to end a session so that they stop obsessing over "the dot."

So is there any controversy over the laser pointer? More like a few do's and don'ts. Let's start by putting everything in perspective. Anyone who's had a cat behavior consultation from me, purchased the article from our bookstore ("What's Play Got To Do With It?"), or just run into me on the street, knows how nuts I am about the importance of play therapy in a cat's life. For confidence building, a sense of bonding and routine, and expressing their core need to hunt, nothing works like a daily play session (not to mention the obvious cardiovascular and weight control benefits). So many cat guardians have related to me that they've had a rough time finding toys that their cats will focus intently on for the required 15 (at least) minutes. So finally, one day it's discovered that the play-finicky cat goes bonkers over the laser pointer. What's the harm?

It can be summed up in one word – frustration. Successful play therapy sessions provide satisfaction on all levels of predation, which means not just stalking, but catching and "killing" as well. When the pointer is used as the sole toy, the cat never actually catches anything. It may be amusing to us to watch them run around and around in circles, but remember, in the primitive cat mind, they live for the entire hunt, not just one aspect of it. My belief is that if they can't catch "the dot," and the dot is put away at your convenience, then there will be an "inappropriate victim" down the line, whether that be other cats in the house, or even your ankles as you walk by. It's like winding up a jack-in-the-box and expecting the top not to blow off. So, as a means unto its own end, I feel the laser pointer can actually undo the benefits of play therapy and help promote further play aggression.

So, then, what is the pointer good for? I think it has two major functions.

First, if you have a cat, described above as being play-finicky, and just loved the laser, great! We'll use that as a two-phase play therapy session. Start by playing with the pointer, get the cat nice and worked up, and then pull a switch to another toy, such as one of my favorites, Da Bird, a fishing pole toy with feathers on the end. You may think your cat isn't interested in this toy because you started the session with it. But by getting them to the point where they are in pure hunter mode, they'll probably be inclined to chase anything. Remember to keep the "tempo" of the second toy similar to the laser, and make the switch fluid, even overlapping the image of the dot onto the new toy. They'll probably lunge for the dot on the feathers. Then, you've got them! Finish off the session with this second toy, one they can catch, gnaw on, and do the "all-four paw-wraparound" on. It will make for a fully exercised cat, not just aerobically, but in that hunter core.

The second application of laser toys is for momentary distractions when dealing with multi-cat problems. Because of my distaste for aversive reactions or punishment (see "Squirt Bottles, Punishment, and Cat Behavior"), I look for more proactive, positive approaches whenever possible. Take for example the bully cat, always stalking his victim. Of course we have to read the body language of stalking in the first place, but once we see that, we can act. Bully gets into a low crouch and begins to walk around the room, belly almost touching the floor, and hiding behind table legs and such (just one example). Because laser pointers these days come with a belt loop attachment, you can have it on you at all times. You see the behavior, and, "POW!" There's a much more attractive "victim" suddenly, shining in the bully's peripheral vision. With a little laser dancing, you can probably get him or her to pay enough attention to it to praise them for doing something right, as opposed to yelling and screaming when the impending cat fight breaks out. Done consistently, this will help teach the cat there is reward associated with the light, and no reward associated with attacking the four legged victim. Remember, however that this is a distraction. Following up with play therapy will help fully diffuse the situation.

Laser toys can be useful, but as opposed to many other toys it has much more limited uses. As a final word of caution, if you do use a laser, be careful not to shine it directly into the cat's eyes; lasers can damage the sensitive retina and cause blindness.

4. Flower Essence Series: Mimulus (Mimulus guttatus)

This is an ongoing series of articles on the Bach flower essences. We will be looking at each essence in turn, and its special indications in cats. This month, the featured essence is Mimulus.

Mimulus, the Yellow Monkeyflower, grows in moist areas (such as seeps, ditches, and springs) at almost any altitude. The name "Mimulus" comes from "mimus" (buffoon), for the flower's clownish color pattern; the species name is from the Latin "guttus" for "drops", referring to the little red dots inside the flower.

Dr. Edward Bach put Mimulus in the group of flowers "for those who have fear." He says that Mimulus is specifically for fear of "worldly things, illness, pain, accidents…of the dark, of being alone, of misfortune. These people quietly and secretly bear their dread." The keynote of Mimulus is courage. Mimulus is traditionally considered to be the remedy for "specific" fears, as opposed to the generalized cloud of non-specific fear that surrounds Aspen. In Mimulus cats, this is typically manifested as fear of specific, objective things such as thunder, dogs, strangers, other cats, riding in the car, fireworks, veterinarians, and so on.

Mimulus cat typically expresses fear through restlessness, puffing up, wide eyes, or simply by running away to hide under the bed. The Mimulus personality may be one that is afraid of many things, and consequently spends much of her time hiding in a closet, or it may be a cat who behaves normally most of the time but is frightened by a few very specific (often noisy) things, like the vacuum cleaner or hair dryer. The Mimulus cat may also be intimidated by a more forceful or aggressive cat in the home.

Mimulus is one of the remedies in the SpiritEssence formulas Mine!, Nervous Nelly, Scaredy Cat, Rescued Dog: Fear, Stress Stopper, Ultimate Adjustment, Ultimate Peacemaker, and Victim, as well as the formula for Wildlife Rehabilitation. Mimulus is also found in Public Speaker, one of our new formulas for people!

Look for the new SpiritEssence publication to be launched in January, 2005. We'll be expanding our current series on Bach flower remedies to include the 100 or so other remedies we currently use in SpiritEssences' many formulas! If you'd like to pre-register for this free publication, send your name and email address to: jean@spiritessence.com. We'd also like to know if you would prefer a weekly or monthly mailing, so please include your preference in your email.

Please visit our web site www.littlebigcat.com regularly to find out what's new, read our monthly Newsletter and see the new material that is constantly added to our Free Article Library and our Bookstore! Past issues of the CatsWalk Newsletter can be found in the Newsletter Archive.

Please feel free to pass this newsletter on to your cat-loving friends! If you received this from a friend, you can sign up for your very own subscription at www.littlebigcat.com! Subscribers are also entitled to receive updates and announcements of interest to our members.

Your feedback is very welcome! Please contact us at info@littlebigcat.com with your comments.

If you no longer wish to receive CatsWalk, please email us at: newsletter@littlebigcat.com and mention 'unsubscribe' in the subject line.