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By Jackson Galaxy
If your cat is using the box appropriately, don't change a thing! If not, read on! There can be as many reasons a cat chooses not to use a litterbox as there are cats. There are a handful of general categories of factors, but ultimately that's why we so often end up going into the home or interrogating a guardian on the phone, looking for that behavioral "needle in the haystack". Each cat is an individual, with his own set of reasons why he would run up the red flag of inappropriate elimination. Let's focus on the substrate—-the elimination surface, the litter itself. In past issues, we've zeroed in on placement of the box, the box itself-—in themselves, small things we might not otherwise think of as potentially problematic. Although surface preferences usually develop early in life, cats can change suddenly later for reasons we don't always fully understand. We can only try to cater to these preferences, often by trial and error. The following factors are based on a mixture of scientific studies and anecdotal observations by behavior consultants. Kinds of litter The choices seem limitless: Clay, scoopable, newspaper, corn-based, wheat-based, granules, pearls, crystals, scented, non-scented….Cats themselves evidently prefer soft, since the majority of substrate preference problems we see are for soft surfaces like bath mats, bedding, and clothing. This may mean that a change from regular clay litter, pellets, or 'crystals' to a sandier, scoopable litter is in order. Cats who are used to eliminating outdoors and are in the process of being retrained to an indoor litterbox might even prefer garden dirt or potting soil. One caution: clay and scoopable litters are dusty, and may contribute to asthma or other respiratory problems. Corn and wheat-based litters, or pelleted types, are the least dusty. Depth of litter From experience and the expertise of other behaviorists and knowledgeable guardians who have been down the path of trial and error, cats prefer the "less is more" philosophy when filling their box. Add enough so that they can cover and dig, but not enough so that their paws actually sink in into the substrate—about 1-1/2 to 2 inches. There is also the human misconception that the more litter, the less stinky. If you live with multiple cats especially, you know what a large fallacy that one is. The ammonia odor in cat urine, despite the best marketing campaign of the litter manufacturer, is strong! Older cats may have issues with pain that impact their use of the litterbox. A recent study found that 90% of cats over 12 years of age had signs of arthritis that were visible on radiographs (x-rays), many of them severe. Less litter provides a more stable surface that may be more comfortable for those creaky old joints. Frequency of scooping and cleaning If you've chosen a scoopable litter, it is important to remove waste daily, as the primary clumping agent, sodium bentonite, absorbs moisture and greatly enhances the size of the waste, decreasing the availability of free space in the box. Even with non-clumping litter (as we've discussed in past issues), cats like the feeling of picking their own spot, circling it, digging a shallow space for it, and burying it—we want to leave plenty of room. Strange as it may seem, we can actually overdo cleaning the box. We often claim in the name of fastidiousness, that boxes need to be spotless daily. That may not be true. For some cats, the comforting presence of their own scent is important in maintaining good litterbox habits. However, if your cat is having box problems and you're not cleaning the box regularly, a thorough cleaning is the first order of business. There is also a difference between necessary removing of waste daily, and cleaning the box. In general, litterboxes do not need a deep cleaning (dumping all the litter and washing the box) more than once every three or four weeks. Hot water and soap are adequate for cleaning. Stay away from heavy-duty cleansers like Pine-Sol, Lysol, or ammonia as their strong odors may actually cause aversion. Scented/Non-scented litter Non-scented is best, especially if there is a lid on the box. Remember what the cat has to deal with in those close confines, and don't add another complication! Many cats seem to dislike the strong perfume of some litters. The declaw factor Declawed cats may choose softer surfaces over the coarse feel of litter. Newly declawed kittens or cats may instantly make an association between the pain in their paws and the litter. Lesson? Don't. If your cat is already declawed, use the softest substrate possible. Check out Dr. Jean's excellent article "A Rational Look at Declawing" in our library for a complete, science-based look at this procedure. Spirit Essences also sells "Declaw Remedy," which helps to disperse the stuck energetic patterns associated with the emotional and physical after effects of the surgery.
Making the switch Cats are slaves to routine. If we've decided that a surface preference is a component of their elimination problem, it may only make the problem worse change litter type quickly. The best course is to be patient, and introduce no more than a half a cup per day of the new substrate in the litterbox until the switch is complete. Be sure to note if the problem is worsening–if so, just back up to the previous content, and leave it be for two days. It may take a couple of weeks to change over. But what's two weeks out of the whole life of your cat? Answer: Nothing!
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For personal assistance with your cat's behavior problems, call Jackson Galaxy at Little Big Cat! Schedule a consultation at 310-376-6616
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